By Ted Fuller
The paintings of Woodworking - complex Routing
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Additional info for Advanced Routing (Art of Woodworking)
Do the layout on two legs at a time to be sure that the mortises are in line with one another. dia. spiral upcut bit. Cut the mortises to their 1-in. depth in a series of shallow passes. As the plan on the facing page shows, the mortises are 2 in. long for the upper end rails and 4 in. long for the lower end rails, centered on the face of the posts. Leave the ends rounded; there’s no need to square them up. posts , corbels , and r ails Mortises, ½ in. wide x 1 in. deep, centered on face 11⁄ 2 in.
Lightly tap all the tusk tenons to seat them firmly. Finish by screwing the shiplapped panels in place in the rabbets. Allow about a penny’s thickness of spacing between the planks. Trim the excess off of the two end boards and screw the boards into the rabbets in the top and base. Now, if you unscrew the ship lapped panels, the entire bookcase can be knocked down for storage or shipping. Panel overlap. The back boards overlap as shown. However, you’ll have to cut away one rabbet on the boards at the ends.
Cut the tenons the same way you cut them for the frame. Lay out the tenons, saw to the lines, and refine the fit with a rabbeting block plane. Using the marking knife and a combination square, continue the layout lines down the face of the stretcher. Then measure and mark half the height of the stretcher to identify the floor of the half-lap joint. Repeat for each of the four stretchers. Mark an X in the waste area for each piece, to ensure that you don’t cut away the wrong part of the joint. To finish the joint, remove the wood from the top to the half-way mark on one stretcher and from the bottom up to the half-way mark on the mating stretcher.